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11/2008 » WineIndulgence

To go back a bit in time, Ive been meaning to tell you all about our trip tp Umbria. Since our time in Puglia wasnt going as planned, we decided to make a change and go north to Umbria. On a recomondation from a friend, and our love of Sagrantino, we headed to a medival town call Montefalco, to stay for three nights in a bed and breakfast. After a 13 hour drive (yes you read correctly) we arrived in the city around 10 pm exhausted from everything. Our horrible mood changed as soon as we were greeted at our car by a woman who worked at the wine bar/restaurant at the B&B. A beautiful wall-in city made of stone with small alleyways reminding you of what times were like before cars. The place called Spirito di vino was amazing. We were brought up to our room (one of three) and melted into the bed. It was amazing. Clean, well put together and restored, we began to forget about our prior days. After a shower we headed downstairs for something to eat. Their menu was great. Typical Umbrian cusine with a choice of the best salami, proscuittos and cheese from all over Europe. 20 types of oils and a long wine line (including of course almost all of the Sagrantinos!) We opted for a cheese and proscuitto plate (duh) a tomato soup and a steak; to be washed down of course with a full bodied Sagrantino di Montefalco Azienda Tabarrini. Everything was delicious. After dinner we headed upstairs to bed, thanking our friends for helping us find this little jewel.
After one of the best nights sleep we've had in awhile, we woke, opened the window and took in a deep breath of fresh mountain air. A new day with new hopes and expectations. A warm cappucino and homemade cakes were waiting for us when we came downstairs and as usual we ate too much. The owner, Angelo, had told us the night before that his wife, Assunta, had another restaurant in the next town over of Bevagna, so we set off to dine at her small boutique. Her place 'La Bottega di Assu' reminded me of a cafe in Paris or maybe in the Village; walls covered in fotos and stacks of books on wine and food pilled high on the floor. We sat outside, even though it was windy, and with a bottle of Grecante of Caprai, ate a wonderful bruscetta of fresh veggies and a drizzle of Umbrian oil. Paolo then had a soup, and for me, a pasta. The town was quiet, but still beautiful. After lunch we went to meet Andrea, the brazilian woman we booked our B&B for us. An artist who has been married and living in Umbria now for years, she showed us her studio of ceramic sculptures, located in the city of Foligno. Afterward, we walked through the city back towards our car and discovered a party. Every year around the beginning of September, the town recreates 'medival times.' The city is divided into parts, and they battle each other for honor. Dressed in traditional clothes they ride their horses through the city and with a jousting stick pick up rings hung throughout the town. The one with the most rings wins. We decided to join in the fun and entered the hall of the 'jousters' for dinner. Before dinner was over, a contest between some of the groups started up over who could drum better. A bit much, but we went home smiling. Upon arriving back at the B&B, we couldnt help but order another glass of sagrantino and some jambon from Spain. I think I must have gained 5 lbs already. We stayed up late talking to the waitress Paola about ideas for the future and of course our love of wine.

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